One of my favorite of the 5 lessons I learned in my first year of sewing was that you never have to be beholden to the fashion world’s definition of seasons. Last week I sent off my Kelly Anorak pattern to the copy shop to get printed with the thought I’d like to make one by the fall. But Thursday, when it arrived, it was cold and rainy here in Virginia and despite it being Memorial Day Weekend, I decided it would be nice to have the Kelly to wear. With the day off on Friday, I got sewing. Thursday night and all day Friday later, the Kelly was complete!
Since making my Lonetree last month, I couldn’t get the Kelly out of my head (it was also on my #2017MakeNine!). I’m going to do a full comparison of two later this week on the blog, but I wanted to do a full post of the Kelly first.
The Kelly Anorak has so many wonderful features including a two piece sleeve, optional drawstring, gusseted pockets, zipper placket and snap buttons. It calls for faux or full flat fell sleeves for a professional finish and a bias bound hem. Everything about the way that the Kelly calls for you to finish the seams and hem makes the jacket seem very ready to wear.
I wanted to make the jacket in an army green and after reading Heather’s blog post about fabric for the Kelly, I picked the Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill in Ivy. I love the Ventana Twill – it’s so substantial without being too stiff. I first came upon the Ventana Twill when picking out fabric for my Luzerne Trench Coat (still in the not started pile!) so I knew it would be a perfect fit for this jacket.
I am still have serger tension issues (I just need to take it to the serger doctor!) so I opted for bound seams with top stitching. My favorite part about making my own clothes is the fun details that you can add to a garment. I used 5 yards of Liberty pre-made bias tape for all of the seams and the hem other than the sleeve seams.
I also used a Liberty poplin fabric for all of the facings. I somehow didn’t read the fabric requirements chart correctly and I ordered too little of the outer fabric. While I did plan to do the facings in a contrast fabric, my lack of fabric and my desire to make the jacket immediately led to me having to use the Liberty fabric for all the facings. Mid-way through sewing I got worried that the contrast was going to be drastic between the two fabrics, but in the end, I love it! I think it’s such a fun girly touch on the army green jacket.
It’s so hard for me to pick my favorite part of this jacket – is it fair to say all of it? I love the length and the drawstring at the waist. I also love the facings – which I was worried I wouldn’t love. My other favorite is the size of the hood. It completely covers my head in case of rain!
I used all of Heather’s blog posts during my sewing process, but I do have to say that Heather’s instructions were really really helpful. A combination of the blog + the instructions made sewing this jacket a lot easier. I only had a few missteps that required major seam ripper action, so I thank Heather for the blog posts and great instructions for that.
I used the hardware kit that Heather sells on her website, and it was the perfect fit for this green twill fabric. She includes spring snaps, which were actually so easy to install. My disdain for installing hardware is high, so if I’m saying they weren’t bad that’s saying something! I did leave the two snaps off the hood, but I may install them later. I also used a different drawstring because I didn’t love the black one that came with the kit. I actually used one from the army green Lonetree jacket kit I bought last fall.
I was also intrigued by the expansion pack that Heather released earlier this month. Because it’s almost June and I really loved the cuffs, I decided to not do the lining expansion. I think I might make another Kelly closer to the winter and add a lining to make it a warmer winter coat.
When I wore this on Saturday, I said to my husband I would have never bought this jacket at a store – I would have never opted for a longer jacket, in this color, with a drawstring waist tie. Another lesson I learned during my first year – I am so much more adventurous with clothes that I make as opposed to ones that I buy. I have no idea why that is – it doesn’t really make sense. But, it worked out! I have a beautiful new jacket.
Do you sew things out of the “fashion season” based on the weather in your area?
Kelly Anorak Summary:
Size Made: 8
View: View A with Hood and Drawstring Waist
Fabric Used: Ventana Twill in Ivy and Liberty Floral Poplin for Facings
Notions Used: 5 Yards of Bias Tape, Twill Tape, Edge Stitch Foot [so good for top stitching and bias tape application!], zipper foot, Heather’s Hardware Kit
Ease of Construction: Heather’s instructions made the process straight forward, but it was definitely a process!
Repeatable? Yes – hopefully with a lining for the winter!
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